![]() So, good news! No lead in the cabinet paint, so we are good to go. However this was from the solder, and not the cabinet paint. You can see a very, very slight red colour on that top stick as a result. This was because I rubbed a couple of bits of solder on it to check whether some of my solder was leaded or not. However you may note a slightly red hue to the top test stick. Both are actually negative tests - no red colour was observed. Red dots on the test card indicate a positive reaction as seen in the first and fourth dots. There is also a confirmation card which functions as a positive control to ensure the test is working properly. A red colour will indicate the presence of lead (subject to the minimum detection level and other factors which are explained on the documentation supplied with the test). I wish I had thoroughly cleaned the surface I was testing first, as the stick will collect dust and dirt which makes it difficult to actually observe any colour reaction. Then, rub the stick on a surface to test. Crack the glass vial within the test stick to mix the reactants together. So it's a good idea to do a quick check whenever you're working on a game. It was still used in commercial applications into the 2000s. Lead paint was banned in the United States in 1978 (the same year this game was made) but only for residential applications. They're expensive, but worth it if you're going to be doing a lot of cabinet work on older games. 3M sell a presumptive test for lead which comes in the form of "sticks" which can be rubbed on the surface to test for the presence of lead ( Bunnings ). However, you can also use a presumptive test to check whether or not the paint in question is likely to contain lead or not. Respiratory protection should always be worn when there's a chance of inhaling lead dust or lead paint fragments. Paint was flaking everywhere whenever I moved the machine. This is primarily a concern when sanding a cabinet back for repair and new artwork, however it's also a concern with extremely damaged side art such as on this game. Pinball machine manufacturers often used lead paint for cabinets. Bally playfields are quite light and can easily be lifted vertically out of the cabinet by one person. Remember to take photos if you're unsure of where plastics or other playfield parts go, particularly if you're disconnecting the playfield to remove it from the cabinet. I found this approach worked best for working on the playfield while it was out of the game. ![]() With the drop targets gone, you can more easily place the playfield down on a bench. I found that it made things easier to take off the drop target assembly from underneath the playfield, as it is the largest mechanism attached to the underside. No special precautions needed for disassembly. As well as a few standup targets, that's all there is to it. Playboy has a simple playfield with only three pop bumpers, a five-bank drop target assembly, a kicker, and two slingshots. It's good when a game is working from the get-go, as you can tear the game down knowing that it should work properly when put back together! Once I identified a couple of basic issues with dodgy lamps and switches not working, I got straight into the tear down and repair. Obviously, the game played poorly, and all of the playfield mechanisms were either gummed up or otherwise working sluggishly, but the main point was that things did work. The biggest surprise with this game was that, even though the timber was falling apart and there was a wasp nest inside the cabinet, it actually booted up and played! I was pleasantly surprised.
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